There has been a lot of discussion surrounding choosing breeding stock - what to look for, what makes a pig "breeding quality," etc. There is a breed standard that we look to to guide us in choosing pigs to utilize as breeders, and if you go by that, you're definitely on your way to success, in my opinion. However, there are a few more things that I place a very high value on that are not part of the breed standard, so I evaluate things slightly differently than most breeders I know. I figure there are things more important to some people than others, and that's part of what makes each breeding program unique. Knowing what you want is important, but sometimes very tricky, especially in the beginning when everything is still so new, you have little to no experience with Kunekunes, or pigs in general, and you really may only have a vague idea of what you want. For example, you may want gentle pigs that are good mothers and don't root, who maintain body condition easily with a mostly pasture diet. That was my starting point. Those were the only things I knew I wanted, but what I didn't know is that there are other very important things to consider. Is that where you are? If so, this post is for you!
For the sake of keeping this post concise, we will assume that we are talking about DNA tested, Registered Kunekune pigs, as those are the only ones that should be considered if they're being used as breeding stock in the first place (more on that topic in another post). To find breeders of Registered stock, check out the American Kunekune Pig Society (AKKPS) and/or the American Kunekune Pig Registry (AKPR) for breeder lists and more information.
I'm going to be sharing several links here because there's really no point in reinventing the wheel when talking about breed standards as there are already great resources for this. We will look to the breed registries both in the US as well as in the UK for this information.
Concise Overview of Breed Standard (AKKPS)
In-Depth Description of Breed Standard (AKPR)
Video - Selecting Kunekune Breeding Stock Using the Breed Standard (BKKPS)
Beyond Breed Standards
The breed standard is a baseline, in my opinion. Yes, all pigs should fall within the standard and be sound animals. HOWEVER, equally important to me is having pigs that go beyond breed standard! What do I mean? How in the world can a pig even go beyond breed standard? If they meet the standard, aren't they all the same at that point? NO. Just because a pig meets the breed standard for physical attributes, that does not mean it is automatically a breeding quality pig in my book. When purchasing piglets, these things may not be quite so evident so you'd look at their parents to see if there is a history of desirable, non-physical attributes.
So, what am I talking about?
There shouldn't be a history of significant illness and they shouldn't be sustained on de-wormer or other medications.
Have they been sick at all since birth? If so, with what? For how long? What actions were required to get them over it? Did they bounce back completely? Were there any lasting effects? Were any medications used? Which ones? What are the possible effects of those medications? Do they get worms easily or seem to keep them? Are chemical de-wormers used? If so, which ones, how much and how often?
They should appear robust and healthy without breaking the bank to feed them.
Do they seem to eat more feed than others but stay on the smaller side, or are they feed efficient for their size?
They should lie down slowly and carefully and not plop.
Did their mother farrow unassisted, in a "smart" area (not in the middle of a mud hold during a monsoon)? Did she squish any piglets by being careless? Did she have plenty of milk for the litter?
EASE OF KEEPING:
They should not escape sufficient fencing, root or cause trouble.
Do their parents root? Can you easily manage their parents to get them where they need to be? Are they aggressive at all with people or other animals?
These attributes are common in the Kunekune breed (as are the physical attributes in the breed standard), but no one typically measures them. Rather they just hope for the best because "a Kunekune is a Kunekune." Not so much! If you saw a Kunekune who had a sharply pointed, long snout, narrow head, beady narrow eyes, long legs, no hams to speak of, no wattles, and splayed legs, open toes, with a sway back, would "a Kunekune be a Kunekune" at that point? Heck no! So why assume that these other non-physical attributes will automatically just fall into place because of their breed alone? That is where we see people begging for answers to how they can keep their pigs from rooting, how they can prevent whole litters from being squashed under the mother, and how they can help their chronically ill-health pig with endless worms, failure to maintain weight, etc. While we can't catch every single non-physical attribute when choosing pigs, as BREEDERS (now I'm speaking to the ones who should know this, but obviously do not or this wouldn't be such an issue), these things should also be noted within the herd and culled against. Every Fall I choose pigs from my herd that are closer to the bottom of the list for whatever reason and they become meat for the freezer. So, I like to think that every single year our program progresses and gets better and better.
Simple Test for Breeding Quality
And I saved the best for last. It's probably the sole reason you're here in the first place - THE TEST! I created a simple "traffic light" test to be an aide in helping people determine whether or not a pig should be added to the breeding line up. Kunekune breeders can use this test in evaluating their piglets to determine who gets to pass on traits and who gets to be passed at the dinner table. It can also be used by buyers, new to the Kunekune scene, to determine whether they should buy a particular pig or not. It's based on an average score, where an average of 1 is a RED LIGHT - Stop, do not breed! An average of 2 means SLOW DOWN (yellow) and consider all points seriously before deciding to proceed. An average of 3 means you have the GREEN LIGHT on an excellent breeding quality pig according to the criteria listed.
Feel free to download and customize this test to meet your expectations of the "perfect pig." I have included typical breed standard points as well as a few things important to my breeding program. You may choose to pick out the things most important to you and fill those out first so you have a good idea of how the pig stacks up in the areas most important to you before scoring the rest. I hope you find it useful!
Why Use Microchips?
The obvious reason to me is one of vanity. Honestly, I don't want my pricey, registered pig to have an ear tag, and I figure those purchasing registered pigs from me wouldn't like it either. Also, you get to know your breeding stock well. You can pick them out by their looks, personality, even the way they brush up against you sometimes, so needing a visual ID isn't necessary on breeding stock, in my opinion. Another reason, that is actually of more importance, is the fact that if your pig is lost or stolen, you know it has that microchip behind it's ear and you can prove that the pig is yours when you find it. Ear tags can be removed, but microchips are not likely to be suspected in the first place.
Who Gets a Microchip & Who Does Not?
Microchips, get your microchips! Wait just a minute. Not every pig needs or should even have a microchip. Breeding stock, yes! Pigs to be grown out for meat, NO! It is not recommended, because of food safety issues, to microchip "feeder" pigs, as the microchip could end up in your meat and then you'd be microchipped. I do my best to avoid such things, personally! Also, the visual ID of an ear tag on non-registered and feeder piglets is actually very useful. I will do a blog post on ear tagging soon where I'll tell you why.
I decided to go with the NanoCHIP microchips for a few different reasons. They're 6x smaller (smaller needle, smaller chip), for one. They can be read by all ISO compliant Universal readers. They come pre-loaded. They don't completely break the bank. Also, comparably priced microchips I found online weren't boasting very favorable reviews regarding longevity of the microchip. Pigs can live into their teens and 20's, so a microchip that only lasts a few years isn't going to cut it. Finally, Secondary Registration is free. That means that I, as the breeder, can register each piglet I sell and it will always and forever be traceable back to me as a secondary contact, regardless of whether or not the new owner chooses to complete the Primary Registration (www.fetch-id.com is one example). For a video overview of this microchip system, click HERE.
Bells and whistles are not important to me for this task. I need a reader that will effectively scan the microchip and display the correct number. I found the Animal ID scanner that does just that and is rechargeable via USB on Amazon (affiliate link below) for a reasonable price. Some microchip scanners are upwards of $200-$300, which is ridiculous, in my opinion, but this one works well and is only around $60.00. For a video overview of the Animal ID scanner in action, click HERE.
You Are Making An Investment
When purchasing registered Kunekune pigs, you are making a wise investment that will pay off, likely after the first litter, in the form of pork and/or profit. However, when making such an investment, you want to make sure you have the support you need (or don't yet know you need) to ensure your success in choosing, raising, butchering and even selling these animals. The single most important choice you will make on this journey is choosing a breeder you can be friends with, that you're comfortable asking questions, and that you feel will be honest, able and willing to help you succeed in your goals for these animals.
When you contact a breeder are they forthcoming, friendly, easy to understand, and thorough? Do they use complete sentences that don't leave you wondering or do you have to pull information out of them? Do they only answer your questions with short replies or do they go into more detail and bring up things you may not have considered? Do they share their experiences, both good and bad, so you might avoid making their same mistakes? I've dealt with many breeders since getting into Kunekunes, and some are painful to try to communicate with. I felt like I was having to lead them, poke and prod them, just to get basic information, much less get extra information. This is not saying that those breeders don't have good pigs, but it is saying that when you have a question later on, it is not likely to be any easier talking to them at that point than it was initially. It is saying that you will quite possibly have a learning curve that these breeders aren't going to be able or willing to help you overcome. Communication is key from the beginning to the end!
The contract outlines expectations of both the breeder and the buyer. Contracts are good things that tend to keep people honest, and let's face it, the breeder world (of any species) may be a less than honest realm. With good initial communication and a contract suitable to both parties, you are well on your way to a positive purchase experience. Both of these things are good indicators of the future of your relationship with the breeder, and ultimately the ease in which you are able to find your way with raising these pigs. But what's next?
If you're purchasing a piglet, chances are that you may have to wait several weeks before picking up your precious piggy. In that time your piglet will be growing fairly quickly. Your breeder should be monitoring the piglets closely and noticing things like piglets that may not be growing quite as quickly as others, those that seem less hardy, those that show signs of aggression, those with rumps that look like toothpicks, etc. As a breeder, it is hard to tell someone that the pretty piggy they selected in the beginning may not be the best choice. It's hard to tell someone that the cutie with the fat wattles is hardly as big as a pork nugget while his siblings are leaving him in the dust. A good breeder will do just that, though. If you get a message saying you may want to consider choosing a different piglet, count your blessings because that breeder is trying to spare you heartache in the long run. It's also nice to get good news updates, including milestones like doing well eating solid food and grazing, developing rounded hams, having DNA sent to the lab, getting the results back, getting micro-chipped, etc. Those are the updates I like to give people! Are you getting updates from your breeder, even if it isn't always sunshine and roses? Communication isn't always good news, but good communication can triumph over bad news.
Getting Your Long Awaited First (or 31st) Piglet
Today is the day! You're finally going to get your new pig! "What about all the registration details? What do I do now?" Don't feel like you're in the dark after the deal is done. I've experienced feeling like the process was incomplete on occasion simply because I was expecting some sort of reassurance that the remaining tasks would be taken care of and in a timely manner, that I had all the correct information for my registered pig, etc. Does your breeder provide you with written information about your new pig, including registered name, registration number, identification (micro-chip) number, sire and dam information, date of birth, DNA case number, what your pig is used to eating, helpful tips on feeding and housing, etc.? No, of course this isn't required, but it is a nice touch and it does put people at ease. It helps to ensure you, as the buyer, leave with information that will guide you in the right direction in caring for your new investment.
We provide this information and more in our New Owner Packet:
1. A full-color brochure that describes our mission, our holistic and sustainable approach, the importance of registration, history of the breed, current imported bloodlines in the US, registry options, attributes of Kunekunes at a glance, and a butcher guide. True, the basic information is available online if you search, however, we think providing it in a nice little packet at your fingertips makes for a sense of comfort and a quick reference.
2. Fetch ID micro-chip registration card. Fetch ID offers 24/7 lost pet alert, lost pet posters, $1,000 vet bill assistance, $500 return flight and free profile updates.
3. Detail sheet which includes registered name, registration number, date of birth, sex, color/# of wattles, dam and sire information, DNA case number and micro-chip ID.
4. An "About the Breed" sheet detailing housing and feeding options.
5. A copy of the Swine Parentage and Genetic Marker Report from UC Davis.
6. A copy of your signed contract.
7. Our business card on the front, in case you have an emergency question you may call at any time.
After you leave with your new piggy, rest assured that registration will be completed in a timely manner. Often the paperwork is submitted (online) that same day!
**Thanks goes to The American Kunekune Pig Registry (AKPR) for the butcher guide and attributes at a glance graphics**
After The Sale
Owning breeding stock is a far more in depth adventure than owning pigs only intended to butcher at a certain age. With breeding stock comes feeding year-round, housing year-round, inclement weather both in hot and cold months, dealing with possible health issues and at the very least, health maintenance, attention to nutrition for health instead of "fattening" a feeder pig, farrowing, piglet processing which may include litter notification, DNA submission, registration, ear tagging or micro-chipping, castration, and even nursing less thrifty piglets, and caring for full-grown breeding stock that may require tough decisions and creative handling in certain circumstances. Do you feel confident that your breeder would be able and willing to answer questions you may have about these things?
Let's Be Friends!
Finding a good breeder goes beyond trusting that you won't get "drug through the mud" by someone. Finding a good breeder means making a friend in the Kunekune world that you feel comfortable going to with whatever questions you may have along your journey. Are you friends with your breeder? No? Let's be friends! We have piglets available year-round and would be happy to walk with you on your journey with Kunekune pigs.
As many of our Higher Ground Herbs & Homestead Friends know, Mama Bacon was due to have piglets around Feb. 17th, 2018. A few days ago, on Feb. 9th, to be exact, I went out to the barn to find one of our gates lying on the ground and all the boy pigs in the girl's area. They had apparently busted in the previous night after having been moved from the front lot to the back lot in order to give the front lot a much needed break from little piggy feet and those little AGH crosses that love to root, especially when it has been raining nonstop and the ground is soggy.
This is where I sit here almost not even knowing what to say. I guess I'll start by saying that I thought, and have always been told, that Kunekune boars wouldn't purposely try to make the sows abort only to re-breed them like is common in other breeds. I'm not sure if this is something that happens as a one-off, every now and then, if it's something that MOST Kunekunes don't do, but some do, or what. Maybe it was because they had been separated for such a long time and then reintroduced. All I know is that while I was trying to separate the pigs back out after re-hanging the gate, I had both Mama Bacon and the father of her piglets, Daddy Bacon, in the barn "in holding" while I tried to get other pigs where they needed to go. Then I heard it. At the time, I didn't even realize "it" was the intentional abortion of 8-day-early, almost ready, but not quite, piglets. I heard one shrill scream, which I know now was from Mama Bacon as she undoubtedly received a blow to the belly that resulted in early labor. Shortly after that scream, I opened the barn door to further separate the pigs I had in holding. Mama Bacon acted normal, but I noticed she was dripping blood from her backside. I instantly thought, "that is NOT good," but I truly didn't believe she was about to miscarry/abort those piglets. Bleeding before the birthing process, unless only slightly because of dilation, can be an indication that the placenta has separated from the uterus. I know this. I had deduced that she had received a blow that made her bleed. However, I still didn't think she'd really abort those babies.
Mama Bacon got hit around 10am that day. Around 4pm she gave birth to the first piglet, which was visibly too early to be born, and dead. It was a little gilt (girl piglet), perfectly formed except her eyes looked sunken in, and she really wasn't that hairy. She had double wattles and surely would've been a sweetie. After finding that first piglet lying in the stall, I was STILL hopeful that things would work out for the best because Mama Bacon had also passed a placenta, clueing me in that the birthing process for one horn was actually complete, AND she didn't appear to be in labor anymore. Furthermore, when resting my hand on her belly, I could feel more babies inside, still moving. I thought, "Ok, maybe she only had the one baby in one horn and the other side is still just fine. This could work out!" I chose not to go in searching for more piglets, not to inject her with synthetic Oxytocin, and to just let nature happen, because she seemed to be doing just fine. I do also have to think about her at this point as well, not just fishing out 8-day-early piglets in hopes I can keep them alive with them being so early in the grand scheme of things. 8 days early when gestation is only about 114 days can make a huge difference, and I didn't want to risk fishing them out if I still had hope that they could stay in and finish developing. Also, entering a sow like that would inevitably mean administering antibiotics, which I never, ever do unless needed to save a life. Weighing her life versus the lives of premature piglets is a no-brainer, in my opinion.
I went to bed that night, after a very long day and staying with Mama Bacon a good part of it as well as a good part of the evening, hopeful that she could carry the remaining piglets just a few more days and have a normal, live birth. The next morning, she greeted me eager to eat her breakfast, as usual. I fed, petted and checked out every square inch of her, feeling carefully for fetal movement (which I couldn't be sure I did or did not feel), and paying close attention to her temperature, since infection is a concern, although not a great one since I didn't ram my arm up her butt looking for piglets. Everything checked out okay, and she was not bleeding anymore, either. Yay! Hanging in there! Or so I thought...
Fast forward to the evening of day 2 after MB got hit. When doing my evening checks, I went to her first, of course. There she was, her normal self, hoping I had come bearing yummy treats. I did, of course, because she had been getting very special treatment in her private suite since the incident. It didn't take me long to see something that I instantly knew couldn't be the result I had hoped for, but it still didn't exactly hit me as the end of hope for a live birth until everything had time to sink in, maybe even the next day. What I saw was another amniotic sac hanging from Mama Bacon, but there were no piglets to be found in the stall where she was staying. This really could only mean one thing, and that was that the piglet(s) were born dead and she likely ate them, which is quite common in these scenarios. That was it, hope was gone. The other horn had expelled its contents and there were no live piglets.
Mama Bacon is still doing well, despite her loss. She has the freedom to move about in the front lot now and isn't sequestered to her suite any longer. Her long awaited litter of piglets is not with us and this is beyond sad to me. Sadder than I would imagine, actually. I'm taking it pretty hard, really. Of course all of the "what ifs" and "if I'd onlys" creep in and I try to make it my fault somehow. I know it isn't my fault, but I do feel responsible, and I will be working even harder (if that's even possible) to ensure gates, fences, etc. are boar tight and this doesn't happen again. Before this incident, Daddy Bacon already had an appointment with the butcher, as we are moving to only registered stock, but now I'm actually really glad to be taking him to meet his piglets next month.
There were so many lessons learned, so much to add to the to-do list, and definitely a humbleness taken away from the past few days. I am still confident in the way I handled everything after the process started, and I do not regret not fishing for piglets or injecting her with drugs to speed her labor, as I am certain the piglets, even if born alive, wouldn't have made it long. Mama Bacon will be bred again soon and we will be overjoyed to meet her next litter of piglets, which will undoubtedly be completely spoiled rotten upon their arrival. Just on principle alone, I will not allow Daddy Bacon to breed her or any other female on our farm for the duration of his life here. His plan did not work out in his favor.
It has come to my attention lately that not all people realize their value. You may be wondering what this has to do with homesteading, herbs, or anything remotely related. Isn't this more of a "self-help" topic? Well, not in this context. Stick with me!
We like to barter here on the homestead. By definition, barter is a system of trade in which one party exchanges products, goods and services in order to obtain required products, goods and services possessed by another. In a barter system, no money exchanges hands between the two parties. The main difference between barter and trade is that while barter does not involve money, trade occurs with currency used as a medium of exchange. Are you getting there with me, or am I still speaking crazy talk? Stick with me!
A common thing that we like to barter on the homestead is our fresh goat milk. Due to the laws in our state, one is supposed to have a government permission slip of sorts, that simply shows you have paid your fee to "big brother" and they've blessed your sale with a pretty little label (that you must make yourself, and are required to place on all bottles) that tells people what they are and are not to do with said milk (not for human consumption, of course), and everyone goes on their merry little way with a false sense of security that your goat milk with the pretty little label is now somehow superior to other goat milk because of such a blessing from our wardens. Well, that just sounds silly, doesn't it? See why we like to barter? Because bartering is not the same as selling, and we DO NOT SELL our goat milk. We also are not in the business of controlling what you do with the goat milk after you obtain it. You can feed it to your animals, disperse it throughout your garden, or *gasp* drink it, make cheese, kefir, etc. with it. Still with me?
Great! Now let's look at how the value of a person, bartering and goat milk all come together in a nice little package with this scenario:
A person wants goat milk (for their pet monkeys, of course).
I have goat milk, but I DO NOT SELL goat milk.
However, I do not NEED all this goat milk! What a conundrum.
Enter the barter!
Except there's one thing.
The person wanting the goat milk doesn't realize their value.
People!! We, as humans, are worth far more than the green stuff in our wallets! It saddens me to come to the realization that most people have no idea what they're worth, or more importantly, what they're capable of. If you took away all their money and all their things, they would essentially be completely worthless in their own eyes. That, my friends, is beyond sad. I could go into the correlation with this and "big brother" keeping us all right where they want us, but we'll keep politics to a minimum for now.
Let's open our minds, find things we're good at, our hidden talents and untapped abilities. Better yet, LEARN a new skill! You don't have to be a fellow homesteader to barter. Can you bake, sew, knit, crochet, make paper mache, paint, do calligraphy, wood work, iron work, vinyl decals, grow herbs in containers, dry those herbs, forage, cut hair, haul rocks, pick up acorns? Then you can barter! Do you have things you can't use but may be of use to a homesteader - old cardboard boxes for their Back To Eden garden, old Halloween pumpkins for their pigs, an old Christmas tree for their goats... The list is endless! You can barter! My point is, don't sell yourself short. Be creative. Know that you have value beyond what is in your wallet and beyond my short list of suggestions as well.
Obviously a person is more than their money or things, but the skills one has or is able to develop is a great indication of who a person is or even who they can be - their character, if I may go so far.
Now, who wants some goat milk?! ;) You'll have to wait until March for that, but we're always open to a good, out-of-the-box barter here on the homestead.
Always Open For Barter!
Why pigs at all? That's simple - MEAT! In the journey to self sufficiency, we desperately want to be able to provide food to our family that we know has been grown/raised free of chemicals and "junk food" like GMO corn and soy. When considering adding pigs to our homestead, there were some things I had questions about. First of all, I had always heard my Dad, and pretty much everyone else that had ever been around a pig of any sort, say that they stink, they root up everything, they're mean and will "eat you alive," the boars will make the sows abort just to be able to breed them again, and they also eat too much (expensive to feed). All of that sounded horrible, but I couldn't believe there weren't solutions to all of that. After all, how did pigs survive for sooooo long if they were such horrible, needy animals? I started asking around in a few pig groups I found online and people suggested putting rings in their noses to keep them from rooting. They also suggested iron clad fences and separation of boars and sows. I was still not going to accept that those were the only options, but again, that's what everyone was claiming.
The Kunekune Revelation
After much searching and reading and question asking, by some miracle, I heard about Kunekune pigs - a smaller (300lb max) "lard" type pig that doesn't root, is extremely docile, "spits out babies like butter," and are herd animals so the boar is part of the family unit and doesn't purposely try to make the sow abort just so he can breed again. Their meat is also excellent - gourmet even. We have a winner!
As I'm typing this we are going on almost one year of owning this awesome breed of pigs. Guess what? I have no complaints! They are everything and more than I expected them to be. We actually had to dig them a mud hole (pigs need to get muddy, especially in hot weather) because they don't root! We've also had one litter of piglets from our first sow and are expecting 3 more litters, due any day now. They really do act as a family unit! What have we fed them? Grass and fruit/veggie scraps when available Spring - Fall, hay and sweet potatoes in Winter, and a small amount of Non-GMO feed (about a handful per pig each day).
Rare Breed Conservation
As an added bonus to owning this breed for meat, in doing so we are helping to conserve a rare breed of farm animal, which is pretty awesome. Our children take great pride in telling people about our efforts in rare breed conservation of both our Guernsey goats and our Kunekune pigs. The American KuneKune Pig Society gives a concise look into the start of breed conservation for this amazing animal:
"In the late 1970's the breed was 'rediscovered' and at that time it was estimated that there were only about 50 purebred KuneKunes left in New Zealand. From purebred base stock of only 6 sows and 3 boars in 1978, the KuneKune conservation program was created by wildlife park owners Michael Willis and John Simister. These two gentlemen single handedly saved the breed from extinction. Once more herds were established in New Zealand, it became clear that exporting of the breed was important. They were afraid that if disease or other natural disasters struck in New Zealand this would wipe the breed out completely. In 1992 the first KuneKunes left New Zealand to go to the UK. Additional stock was sent to the UK in 1993 & 1996.
All KuneKunes in the United States go back to either direct New Zealand or UK imported stock. There have been five importations of KuneKune pigs into the USA occurring in 1996, 2005, 2010, and 2012."
How can you be "conserving" a breed if you kill them for meat? Good question! It doesn't really make sense upon first thought, but think a little harder...
Basically, since our primary goal was to have meat for our family and we chose to purchase Kunekunes for breeding (creating meat), that means that there will be A LOT of piglets born. KKs have 6-8ish piglets in each litter, and they are able to have a litter 3 times each year. We have 3 sows. You do the math! Ok, I did it for you - it works out to be about 72+/- piglets a year. First of all, we don't have that much freezer space. Secondly, this is where breed conservation comes in. Part of conserving and preserving a breed is in breeding animals that are of the best quality and most similar to the original Kunekunes. Breeding animals that carry characteristics not shared by the originals is getting away from conservation, not toward it. So, pigs that do not "conform" to these original standards that make the Kunekunes special are harvested for meat or sold as pets or "feeder pigs," meaning that the person buying it intends to feed it until it is old enough to harvest for meat for their own use.
Own Your Own Kunekune Pigs
As mentioned above, we have a lot of piglets born each year. If you are interested in making Kunekune pigs part of your farm or homestead, we'd love to share our experiences and our amazing animals with you. There are 3 options for purchasing piglets:
1. Purchase a "Breeder" - An animal of the best quality that will carry on attributes of the original Kunekune
2. Purchase a "Feeder" - An animal that may or may not carry the original attributes of Kunekunes and is sold for the sole purpose of living long enough to be big enough to harvest for meat.
3. Purchase a Pet - An animal that may or may not carry the original attributes of Kunekunes and is sold for the enjoyment of its new family. This is tricky, and an option that I'm not a fan of offering. First of all, "pets" are often purchased because they're cute and kids love them. Then they grow up, kids don't like them anymore, and they are often neglected or unwanted and at that point are serving no purpose at all.
For more information and options to purchase your own Kunekune from our beloved drift (the snazzy word for 'herd of pigs'), please contact us by phone at 256.333.0504 (leave a message, please) or via the form located under the Contact tab at the top of this page.
We've been eagerly awaiting the birth of all our little goat babies for what seems like forever. Lulu (a first freshener Toggenburg) was due to kid first. Her estimated due date was June 1, but she gave birth to beautiful boy/girl twins on May 30th. She was nice enough to hold out until I went out to feed. She ate her feed and we all went through our morning routine as usual. As had been the case for the past couple of days, I checked to see how Lulu's tail ligaments felt, not because it benefited her any, but I was curious to know if I could possibly tell when she might kid. I checked and I could feel NO ligaments. They were all soft and ready to go, so I though, "Yay, she shouldn't be too much longer, maybe tonight or tomorrow." Then, as I was walking around, taking in the scenery and checking this and that, Lulu comes up to me and just had a different demeanor. She wanted me to pet her and be near her, which she typically doesn't care one way or the other. Then she practically led me to the hay filled stall of the barn, where she started breathing heavily. The other goats couldn't resist seeing what we were doing, so they joined in as well, but I could tell that she wasn't keen on having them around. Then I saw her backside open up to the size of a baseball and I knew this was the real deal. I know I don't want an audience when I'm giving birth, so I removed all the animals to the back pasture so she could have her peace. When I returned she pushed and the amniotic sac bulged out. I was beyond excited that she let me (and even seemed to want me to) be part of this experience, as I missed our first goat kidding last year so this was a first for me, although not my first birth by any means. I've been a doula for birthing mothers and I've had two children of my own, with the last being unassisted (yes, on purpose). Even so, birth never gets old and is always exciting!
I'm in the goat groups on Facebook and I see everyone posting about how they "saved" the day (and their goats) by shoving their hands where they don't belong and pulling out babies like prizes in a grab bag. No thanks! Not because I'm squeamish or I think I "couldn't" do it, but because BIRTH IS NATURAL - human, goat, pig, etc. We did not get here by being afraid of birth or by not instinctively knowing how to do it. Just as women don't need interference during birth, neither do animals 99.99% of the time. This just seems stupid to have to say, but I suppose mainstream thinking has effectively brainwashed everyone into freaking out about birth. Maybe Lulu knew I would be her moral support but wouldn't interfere needlessly so she trusted me, who knows. Lulu progressed quickly and the increasingly harder pushes brought her to her knees. She looked to me for support and I just squatted beside her and rubbed my hand down her side between contractions. She relaxed as I did this and then tackled the next contraction. Soon enough she decided that standing would be a better position for her, so up she came. At this point I decided to get a video of the birth. I could see what looked like a foot and a mouth with baby's tongue out. I admit that the tongue out scared me for a moment, but I looked (no hands) a little closer and clearly the baby was moving. I also noticed there were two feet that looked to be pointed in a favorable and easy birthing position. I knew she had this, even though she was only at the beginning. The first baby (a boy we named Tumbleweed) came tumbling out after several hard pushes. He hit the ground, but not as hard as I expected, really. I knew this wasn't a bad thing and that he was fine. I did help get his head unfolded after he was out just because it didn't look that comfortable.
The pause between babies is necessary and important. Mom gets a little break from contractions and is able to lick and bond with the first baby. Doing so stimulates more Oxytocin to flow through her body so she is ready to push out the next baby. I'm assuming they may feel a "birth high" similar to that felt by natural birthing human mamas when they have accomplished such an amazing feat all on their own and have all those wonderful birthy hormones flowing. Lulu definitely looked energized and ready for the next baby as she felt the first of her second set of contractions return. She lifted her head and paused for what looked like a moment to regroup and focus, then she began pushing again.
And Then There Were Two
The birth of the second baby was much faster than the first and seemed easier for Lulu. Although, the second baby, a little girl, was much smaller than her BIG brother. Lulu probably only pushed three times before baby Annie was out except for her back legs. If you look closely, you can see that little Annie was alert yet still between two worlds, with her back legs still inside her mother. Lulu needed a little rest before Annie came out completely, but that was fine. No need to interfere. After several minutes of being stuck between two worlds, Lulu stood up and Annie was completely earthside. And then there were two - Higher Ground Queen Anne's Lace (Annie) & Higher Ground Tumbleweed.
Give Birth a Chance
Lulu is a Toggenburg (Swiss breed) first freshener (FF for short), meaning that this is her first time to kid, or give birth. She rocked it! She did not need me, but fortunately for me she let me be a part of her special day and even seemed to appreciate my quiet, hands-off presence. Thank you, Lulu!
From experience as a birthing mammal, myself, and my experience helping other birthing women, I knew that a hands-off approach was best. Rupturing the sac would've made labor hurt worse as there would be no cushion between baby's hard, bony parts and mom. Pulling at any point could've caused more harm and stress than good. Stress in labor/birth sends nasty chemicals soaring through the bloodstream that work as an antagonist to naturally occurring Oxytocin. Overall, birth is natural, so just let it be, give it a chance to work out, and only interfere if it is blatantly obvious it is needed. Otherwise you just may cause the issues you're so afraid of to begin with.
I recently bought an Instant Pot (thank you, Black Friday sale!) and have been experimenting like crazy. So far, I have only mastered one meal in the Instant Pot, but it's great for doing "unusual" things like boiling (ok, they're really steamed, not boiled) fresh eggs and this - CAJUN BOILED PEANUTS! Yum! Let's cut the nonsense and just get right to the recipe, shall we?
Cajun Boiled Peanuts (2 pounds)
2lbs raw peanuts, in the shell
6+ Jalepeno Peppers (green or wait until they turn red, as I did)
6+ Cayenne Peppers (I used the ones I dried from the garden this past Summer)
2TBS Apple Cider Vinegar
1/2c Pink Himalayan Salt (or other salt of your choice)
2 Bay Leaves
1TBS Minced Garlic
Add all ingredients to the Instant Pot and secure the lid. Move the steam release to the "steaming" setting. Use the MANUAL setting for HIGH pressure and set the time for 60 minutes. When time is up, let the steam release naturally. Voila!
You may want to add more peppers if you're looking for a super hot version. This was surprisingly pretty mild, even with 12 hot peppers.
The cold temps are here and keeping the animals warm and the water in liquid state is top priority. Here are 3 simple ingredients that can be added to your water tanks to help keep them warm in icy Winter weather.
It was by acident that I discovered this little gem to help keep the water in liquid, or at least slushie, form. While nursing a sick pig and trying to get him to drink more water while providing him with a bit of iron at the same time, I put a decent amount of molasses in his water bucket. The next morning, which was the first freeze for the season, the main water tank for the goats had an inch thick sheet of ice on top, but the pig water was still perfectly drinkable, and only a little slushie. Ding, ding, ding! This became the first and most important ingredient in what evolved into the Keep Them Warm forumla.
The next time I was mixing my molasses mixture, I caught myself thinking about different things I could add that would be beneficial to the animals in the cold weather and I automatically thought of Cayenne. People had mentioned giving Cayenne to their chickens in winter to keep them warm and help keep egg production up, so I thought it made sense to add it here. Cayenne also has the benefits of being a vermifuge against intestinal parasites, a tonic herb that boosts the immune system, and a catalyst herb that boosts the efficacy of other herbs and supplements. This one is a definite winner!
Apple Cider Vinegar
To round out the formula, I naturally turned to apple cider vinegar (ACV), as it is not only known for being a great probiotic, but it has many more benefits as well. It provides energy for working dogs while repelling fleas and ticks and conditioning their coats. ACV may also improve digestion, provide relief from arthritis and inflammation, help adapt to colder temperatures, and help prevent urinary tract infections and urinary calculi. It also disrupts the development of bacterial and viral infections. Every animal can benefit from these attributes!
Order ingredients by clicking on each individual ingredient below (aff. links):
1/2 to 1 cup Molasses
1 tsp Cayenne
2 TBS Raw, Unfiltered ACV
Very warm water (not hot or you risk destroying the live part of the ACV)
Add first 3 ingredients to a quart-size Mason jar. Top with very warm water and secure the lid. Shake until the molasses is completely mixed. Pour this mixture into a 2.5 gallon chicken waterer and top with water as usual, or adjust quantity of ingredients and add to the size water tank of your choice. I give this formula to all my animals - chickens, guineas, goats, pigs, dogs, and cats.
Keep them warm! :)
Move over Scentsy! These all natural wax melts have ingredients I'm proud to share. More importantly, they lack ingredients that make people sick, harm the environment, and endanger animals. Actually, they're so simple and work so well that it really makes me wonder why in the world people would make these things with all the junk they like to put in them. It makes NO SENSE!
So, here it is - a short blog post for a really easy wax melt that's also pretty awesome.
Recipe (Yields about 1 ice cube tray with 1/2oz wells):
5oz coconut oil
3oz beeswax (those little pellets melt faster and are easier to weigh out)
A glug, drip, shake, or tap of the essential oils of your choice (really, just put what you want to put, it's not rocket science)
Tiny crockpot (I use this one - affiliate link)
Glass measuring cup (Like this one - affiliate link)
Something to stir with - butter knife or spreader works well
Silicon candy mold or ice cube tray (mine holds approximately 1/2oz in each well)
I start by putting about half an inch or so of water in my tiny little crockpot (below) and turn it on. I use a glass measuring cup to hold my ingredients, but I don't use the measuring cup for measuring in this recipe, so don't worry with that. I use my kitchen scale and weigh my ingredients. Now, weigh out your coconut oil and beeswax into the measuring cup and place the measuring cup into the crockpot. Cover everything with a towel and let it heat up. When the beeswax is completely liquid, give it a good stir, unplug the crockpot, then add the essential oils. Finally, pour the mixture into your ice cube tray/candy mold and let harden. You may want to speed the process in the freezer. They pop out very easily after a stint in the freezer. Store in an air tight container. I use small plastic bags.
These wax melts have a higher beeswax content than many other recipes I found online because I wanted them to melt nicely, but I didn't want them to melt when I didn't want them to melt. They're firm, but melt nicely and quickly enough. You can also use them for solid perfume or lip balm, so get creative with your essential oils. You could also infuse the coconut oil with herbs before starting this recipe for a custom wax melt with added benefits.
Just your average ex-scientist turned herb loving, natural living, homeschooling mom, wife, and homesteader who values common sense, real food, real people, primal instincts, and self-sufficiency.
Blog posts may contain affiliate links, which means I may get a small commission on the sale of certain products if you make a purchase as the result of clicking on the link.